Post by Glen Carman aka Delmonico on Sept 5, 2017 3:41:07 GMT -6
Macaroni and Cheese
Not a dish most associate with this time period, most today sadly think of macaroni and cheese as something you buy in a box, boil the macaroni, drain, add milk, margarine and some powdered cheese stuff and then stir, they even call it comfort food because for many, that is what Mom made them.
Well I am here to tell you that macaroni and cheese dates back to the 14 Century in Europe and to Colonia times in America, it being a favorite dish of Thomas Jefferson and a version appears in the well known 1824 cookbook The Virginia Housewife by Mary Randolph; some recipe books of the time will call what we think of as macaroni and cheese, either macaroni pudding or macaroni pie.
A bit about pasta aka macaroni, today when we speak of macaroni we think of the elbow type or the ones that look like sea shells, but in the time period macaroni meant any type or shape of pasta and indicates the pasta is dried (pasta secca) instead of fresh pasta (pasta fresco). The exact type used could vary and exact information is lacking on types, but most recipes of the time mention breaking the macaroni into smaller pieces before cooking. The 1886 book by Juliet Corson, Miss Corson's Practical American Cookery and Household Management does mention pasta now coming in all sizes and I would guess this means shapes also. I tend to use the shell type, although it is likely the sizes and shapes imported varied, many of the over 300 types of pasta were being made in Italy long before the 19th Century.
Although some pasta was made in the United States a lot of it was imported till the late 19th Century, the Durum wheat needed to make is was not grown in this country on a large scale till the late 1880’s when it was introduced to the Dakotas. It is mentioned in some sources that improved production of macaroni in Italy as well as improved shipping from Europe had brought macaroni to the masses though lower costs.
A good rule of thumb is 4 ounces of pasta is one cup uncooked and it will make 2 cups of cooked pasta, although larger types will produce slightly more and smaller types will produce slightly less.
Although I’m sure most reading this know how to cook pasta, I will include it just to be thorough.
Use 4 quarts of water per pound of pasta, add salt to the water if desired it will make the macaroni less sticky, bring water to a boil, add pasta and stir, reduce heat to a simmer when the water comes back to a boil, and stir occasionally. For baked dishes like you want the pasta firm and slightly chewy, drain and add a bit of butter or oil and stir, this will help prevent the macaroni from sticking together.
I like making my macaroni and cheese in a shallow oven, leaving some space on top, the recipe as follows is for a 12 inch shallow oven, it can be adjusted for more or less depending on the needs.
2 pounds (8 cups) macaroni (any type) cooked
3 eggs
6 cups of milk
1 stick butter (melted)
2-3 pound (4-6 cups) grated cheese (I use Sharp Cheddar)
2-3 cups of crushed cracker crumbs
Salt and pepper
Place macaroni in the dutch oven; beat the eggs, mix with the butter, 2/3rds of the cheese, salt and pepper and the milk, pour over the macaroni and mix. Layer the cracker crumbs on top and cover with the rest of the cheese. Bake at a medium heat till the center is set and the top cheese is melted and browned slightly.
I sometimes add a bit of ground cumin or dill weed to the mixture, both go good with cheese dishes.
Not a dish most associate with this time period, most today sadly think of macaroni and cheese as something you buy in a box, boil the macaroni, drain, add milk, margarine and some powdered cheese stuff and then stir, they even call it comfort food because for many, that is what Mom made them.
Well I am here to tell you that macaroni and cheese dates back to the 14 Century in Europe and to Colonia times in America, it being a favorite dish of Thomas Jefferson and a version appears in the well known 1824 cookbook The Virginia Housewife by Mary Randolph; some recipe books of the time will call what we think of as macaroni and cheese, either macaroni pudding or macaroni pie.
A bit about pasta aka macaroni, today when we speak of macaroni we think of the elbow type or the ones that look like sea shells, but in the time period macaroni meant any type or shape of pasta and indicates the pasta is dried (pasta secca) instead of fresh pasta (pasta fresco). The exact type used could vary and exact information is lacking on types, but most recipes of the time mention breaking the macaroni into smaller pieces before cooking. The 1886 book by Juliet Corson, Miss Corson's Practical American Cookery and Household Management does mention pasta now coming in all sizes and I would guess this means shapes also. I tend to use the shell type, although it is likely the sizes and shapes imported varied, many of the over 300 types of pasta were being made in Italy long before the 19th Century.
Although some pasta was made in the United States a lot of it was imported till the late 19th Century, the Durum wheat needed to make is was not grown in this country on a large scale till the late 1880’s when it was introduced to the Dakotas. It is mentioned in some sources that improved production of macaroni in Italy as well as improved shipping from Europe had brought macaroni to the masses though lower costs.
A good rule of thumb is 4 ounces of pasta is one cup uncooked and it will make 2 cups of cooked pasta, although larger types will produce slightly more and smaller types will produce slightly less.
Although I’m sure most reading this know how to cook pasta, I will include it just to be thorough.
Use 4 quarts of water per pound of pasta, add salt to the water if desired it will make the macaroni less sticky, bring water to a boil, add pasta and stir, reduce heat to a simmer when the water comes back to a boil, and stir occasionally. For baked dishes like you want the pasta firm and slightly chewy, drain and add a bit of butter or oil and stir, this will help prevent the macaroni from sticking together.
I like making my macaroni and cheese in a shallow oven, leaving some space on top, the recipe as follows is for a 12 inch shallow oven, it can be adjusted for more or less depending on the needs.
2 pounds (8 cups) macaroni (any type) cooked
3 eggs
6 cups of milk
1 stick butter (melted)
2-3 pound (4-6 cups) grated cheese (I use Sharp Cheddar)
2-3 cups of crushed cracker crumbs
Salt and pepper
Place macaroni in the dutch oven; beat the eggs, mix with the butter, 2/3rds of the cheese, salt and pepper and the milk, pour over the macaroni and mix. Layer the cracker crumbs on top and cover with the rest of the cheese. Bake at a medium heat till the center is set and the top cheese is melted and browned slightly.
I sometimes add a bit of ground cumin or dill weed to the mixture, both go good with cheese dishes.